Strawberry

Strawberries are an Excellent Fruit for the Home Garden
Scientific classification:
The strawberry belongs to the genus Fragaria in the rose family, Rosaceae. The scientific names for some common American species are F. chiloensis, F. vesca, and F. virginiana.
Figure 1. Fresh ripe strawberries being harvested
Strawberries are well suited for planting in the home garden since they produce fruits very quickly, and require a relatively small amount of space (Figure 1). Each plant may produce up to one quart of fruit when grown in a matted row during the first fruiting year. Twenty-five plants will normally produce enough strawberries for an average sized family. Production usually declines during the second and third years of fruiting; therefore a new planting should be established after strawberry plants produce fruits for more than 3 to 4 years for maximum production.
Strawberry plants produce attractive fruit with fine flavor. Strawberries have a very high vitamin C content and are versatile as a dessert food. Most cultivars of strawberries are well suited to freezing and processing as well as for fresh use. Many people enjoy eating the fresh-picked fruit. Strawberries are also excellent for jams, jellies, and pies. Freshly sliced and sugared strawberries are excellent when served chilled either alone or over shortcake or ice cream. In addition, strawberries contain a natural substance called ellagic acid, which is an anti-carcinogenic (cancer-preventing) compound.
June-Bearers vs. Day-Neutral Types
Strawberry plants may be of two major types, June-bearing or day-neutral. June-bearing plants are cultured to produce a full crop the season after planting. In Ohio, the ripening season of June-bearing strawberry cultivars ranges from late May to the end of June. Day-neutral type strawberry plants differ from the standard or June-bearing types in that they produce a full crop the first season they are planted. June-bearing types are most popular for the home garden and commercial use and are well worth waiting for because of their flavor and quality. One cannot tell by looking at the plant whether they are of the day-neutral or June-bearing type; therefore, when purchasing plants, it is important to specify which type is desired. It is certainly a good idea to plant both types to get fruit production in the first year from day-neutral strawberries, and high yield and quality from June-bearing strawberries.
Figure 2. Earliglow fruits in a quart
Cultivar Selection
Home fruit growers have a large number of cultivars (varieties) to select from. The selection is much greater for the June-bearing types than for the day-neutral types. Strawberry cultivars recommended for growing in Ohio are listed in Table 1.
It is important to know the ripening season, yield, berry size, freezing quality, and dessert quality of recommended cultivars in order to select cultivars according to personal needs (Table 1). In addition, selecting disease resistant cultivars will help growers reduce the risks of damage from plant diseases (Table 2). Refer to Table 2 for the disease resistance of the recommended strawberry cultivars. Home strawberry growers are encouraged to check the references listed or talk with Extension Agents or local commercial strawberry growers for additional information about strawberry cultivars.
Planting Site Requirements for Strawberry Plants
Strawberry plants require full sun for the maximum yield and the best quality. They will grow and produce crops in several different types of soil. However, best results are obtained when the plants are grown in loose, fertile soils containing large quantities of organic matter. The soil should be slightly acidic, having a pH of 5.8 to 6.5. If the extent of soil acidity or fertility is unknown, it is suggested that the soil be sampled and tested. Arrangements for soil testing can be made through your county Extension office. Request special tests for organic matter and boron. Lime and fertilizers should be applied to soils according to soil test results.
The strawberry plant is sensitive to excessive soil moisture. Strawberries should be planted in raised beds or on ridges if drainage is a problem. Also, avoid planting strawberry plants in areas where potatoes, tomatoes, or sod were grown recently. Insect and disease problems may result in serious plant damage in such areas.
Cultural Problems for Growing Strawberry Plants
Important cultural practices for growing strawberries include planting techniques and spacing, weed control, proper fertilizer, blossom removal, irrigation, renovation of strawberries after harvest, insect and disease control, and mulch for protection from cold temperatures and diseases.
Planting and Spacing
Early spring is the best time to plant strawberry plants as long as soil is not too wet. Fall planting is not recommended because plants can be injured by soil heaving (alternate freezing and thawing). Strawberry plants have roots, a crown, and leaves (Figure 3). The crown is a short stem between the roots and leaves.
When planting, make sure to cover the roots and only half of the crown with soil. Make a trench deep enough to set the roots vertically. Do not bend roots horizontally.
June-bearing plants are spaced 12 to 24 inches apart. On close-spaced plants, runners are controlled by removing unwanted runners during the first season. In August, rows should be 18 to 24 inches wide with plants 6 to 8 inches apart in the row. Generally rows are 36 to 40 inches apart. A circular terrace can be used if one has limited space (Figure 4).
For day-neutral strawberries, plants are set 8 to 12 inches apart in the row with 30 to 36 inches between rows. Remove runners throughout the first season and remove flowers for the first 6 weeks after planting. Mulch the planting with 3 to 4 inches of straw or wood chips to conserve moisture.
Figure 3. Diagram of a strawberry plant
Weed Control
Mechanical cultivation, mulching, and certain herbicides are suited to maintain essentially weed-free planting. Mechanical cultivation and mulches are recommended.
Lime and Fertilizers
Soil testing every two to three years is highly recommended for the best yield and quality. Apply nutrients and lime (if needed) prior to planting according to soil test results. Apply 1 ounce (10 oz. 10-10-10) of actual nitrogen broadcast per 100 square feet of plant or 0.5 ounce (5 oz. 10-10-10) banned 4 to 6 inches away from the plants 7 to 10 days after planting. Apply 1 to 1.5 ounces actual nitrogen broadcast in mid-June if rainfall has been excessive and again in mid-August. In the fruiting years, apply 1 to 1.5 ounces actual nitrogen broadcast after harvest and again in mid-August.
Blossom Removal
Remove the flower stalks of June-bearing strawberry plants as they appear throughout the first growing season. More production can be expected if the plants are allowed to attain large size before fruiting. Remove the blossoms of day-neutral types of plants as they appear until about the middle of June (first year only). Then allow flowers to set fruit for harvest during the remainder of the season (August through October).



Table 1. Cultural Characteristics of Recommended Strawberry Cultivars
Cultivar Ripening Season (Days After Earliglow) Berry Size Freezing Quality Dessert Quality Yield
June-Bearers
Earliglow 0 Med‚Large Very Good Very Good Medium
Lester 5 Large Fair Good Medium
Redchief 5 Large Very Good Good High
Surecrop 5 Large Good Good Medium
Guardian 8 Very Large Fair Good High
Midway 9 Med‚Large Very Good Good High
Kent 10 Large Poor Fair High
Delite 10 Large Good Fair High
Lateglow 12 Large Fair Good High
Day-Neutral
Tristar 5 Small Good Fair Medium
Tribute 5 Small Good Fair Medium

Table 2. Disease Resistance of Recommended Strawberry Cultivars
Cultivar Leaf Spot Leaf Scorch Red Stele Verticilium Wilt Powdery Mildew
June-Bearers
Earliglow R R R R S to I
Guardian S to I R R R S
Midway VS S R I U
Lester U R R S R
Redchief S R R I R
Kent S I S S S
Surecrop I to R I R VR U
Delite R R R R U
Lateglow R R R VR S
Day-Neutral
Tristar T T R T to R R
Tribute T T R R R
S = susceptible, VS = very susceptible, I = intermediate reaction, R = resistant (the disease does not occur on that cultivar or only to a very small degree), VR = very resistant, T = tolerant (the disease is clearly evident, but with little or no apparent detrimental effect on plant or yield), U = unknown.
*Cultivars are only resistant to specific races of the red stele fungus. If races are present in the planting or are introduced into planting for which resistance genes are not available, red stele can develop on "resistant" cultivars.
Irrigation
Additional watering is needed during dry seasons. Plants require 1 inch to 1.5 inches of water per week from mid-June to mid-August. Take care in watering so that the soil does not remain soggy for any prolonged period.
Figure 4. Strawberries in a circular terrace
Renovation of Strawberries After Harvest
Strawberry plants can be fruited more than one year but probably not for more than three harvest seasons, depending on the vigor and number of plants. June-bearing strawberries should be renovated every year right after harvest if one desires excellent fruit production for more than one year.
First control weeds by mechanical means or labeled herbicides. Remove all old leaves with a mower or a sickle. Make sure to set the mower as high as the blade will go to avoid injuring plant crowns. Narrow the rows to a width of about 12 inches by cultivating between them with a rotary tiller. Thin the plants within each row, leaving 4 to 6 inches between plants. Topdress beds with 0.5 to 1 inch of soil. Broadcast 2.5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of planting. Apply 1 inch of water each week to promote growth if it does not rain. The strawberry patch may look very depressing right after renovation (Figure 5). However, strawberry plants do recover beautifully (Figure 6) and will be much more productive.


Figure 5. Strawberry patch right after renovation
Insect and Disease Control
Many problems due to insects and diseases in the home garden can be avoided by selecting sites where sod, tomatoes, or potatoes have not been recently grown; planting disease-free and disease-resistant planting stock; and using good cultural practices. For additional information on insect and disease management, refer to the following OSU Extension publications: Bulletin 780, Controlling Disease and Insects in Home Fruit Plantings; Bulletin 506 B2, Ohio Commercial Small Fruit and Grape Spray Guide; and Bulletin 861, Midwest Small Fruit Pest Management Handbook.
Winter Mulching
In addition to value for weed control, mulching is necessary to provide winter protection for the plants. Apply straw that is free of weed seeds two to three inches deep over the plants after they have been subjected to several sharp freezes in the low 30s or high 20s in fall. This is generally between November 15 and 30, but no later than December 15.
Figure 6. Strawberry patch one week after renovation
Frost Protection
Strawberry flower buds are very susceptible to spring frosts. Mulches used for winter protection should be pulled from plants in early spring, before there is much leaf yellowing. The mulch should be left in the alleyways and can be used to cover blossom in the spring when frost is predicted, especially with early cultivars, such as Earliglow. Frost protection could be the difference between a good crop and no crop.
The author gratefully acknowledges Richard C. Funt, and J. D. Utzinger on whose original fact sheet this is based. The author also likes to thank Gayle Lykins for her secretarial help with this fact sheet.
Refer to the list of useful references for additional information on home fruit production.
Strawberries
Stocks Strawberries are subject to several serious virus diseases, and at one time these threatened to make commercial cultivation quite uneconomic and garden culture most disappointing. However, there has been considerable improvement in the general health of strawberry stocks since the introduction of a government scheme of inspection.
It is of the utmost importance to start with disease-free stock and one should purchase from a grower with a good reputation to maintain.
Site Although the strawberry is of woodland origin, the modern fruit requires all the sun it can get. On the other hand, the site for the strawberry bed needs to be sheltered, for cold spring winds can very seriously check growth. The garden sloping gently towards the south, unshaded but sheltered, will yield the earliest crops.
Although strawberries may be grown in most parts of the world, late spring frosts may be a limiting factor. This can be quite a local problem and if your garden lies in a frost-pocket there is not much you can do about it except to be ready to give some kind of protection with cloches or plastic to plants in flower or to sidestep the difficulty by growing only the so-called perpetual fruiting types, removing the first trusses of blossom and concentrating on late summer or autumn fruits.
Soil Strawberries do best in a rich medium loam with high humus content. Well-rotted leaf mould is an excellent material to incorporate in soils deficient in organic matter, but any other decayed vegetable matter can be used. The site needs to be well drained.
Heavy clay, peaty and very light, sandy soils should be prepared well in advance of planting time.
Soils with a very high lime content are unsuitable for strawberries.
Preparation Early preparation will not only assist soil improvement but will also ensure freedom from perennial weeds, which can be a considerable nuisance. When digging, rotted farmyard or stable manure should be worked in, 5kg (10lb) per sq. m sq. yd) being regarded as a normal 'dose' and twice this rate is recommended for poor, sandy soil. Follow with a surface dressing of 28g (1oz) per sq. m sq. yd) of sulphate of potash.
Where no natural manure or garden compost is available 28g (1oz) per sq. m sq. yd) each of superphosphate, sulphate of ammonia and sulphate of potash should be sprinkled over the bed after digging and lightly raked in. If the soil is not already rich in humus, add up to half a bushel of peat per sq. m sq. yd).
Planting Strawberries are usually planted in beds, the rows being 0.7 to lm (2? to aft) apart, the plants 38 to 46cm (15 to 18in) apart in the rows, according to the richness of soil. One reason for early soil preparation is that the soil should be firm.
Summer-fruiting strawberries may be planted either in the late summer to early autumn or even in the spring, provided that in the latter instance all blossom is removed the first summer. The earlier plants can go out, the bigger and stronger plants they will make their first year-so, if you can obtain plants so early, plant in July, August, or even September, but October is late.
The perpetual-fruiting varieties can also be planted in autumn but rooted runners are not available so early. However, as they have time to catch up in spring, October planting is quite satisfactory, provided the soil is properly, a workable and will break down to a - friable tilth. On cold, heavy soils the planting of perpetual strawberries is probably better deferred until spring.
When ordering, for preference stipulate plants which have been rooted in pots. These will be slightly more expensive but they will transplant more readily, with less root damage, and they will have better root development.
Use a trowel for planting and take a hole out for each plant deep enough to accommodate the roots without bending them. Then return a little soil at the center of the hole to make a mound on which the strawberry plant can 'sit' with its roots spread evenly around it.
The base of the crown should be just at soil level: if it is too high, roots are exposed and dry out, resulting in eventual death of the plant; while if the crown is half buried, it will either produce unwanted weak secondary growths or rot away entirely.
Plant firmly, using the handle of the trowel as a hammer. As you proceed, see that the roots of plants waiting their turn are not exposed to the wind. Finally, rake the bed smooth and give a good watering to settle the soil.
Follow up Keep an eye on the weather and the state of the soil because many strawberry plants are lost or seriously retarded by the effect of drought during the weeks immediately after planting. Also inspect the bed after hard weather, and refirm with your boot any plants, which have been lifted by frost action.
In the early spring scatter fertilizer dressing down the rows at the rate of 56g (2oz) per sq. m sq. yd). This is made up of 1 part of sulphate of potash, 1 part of sulphate of ammonia and 2 parts of superphosphate (all parts by weight). Be careful that these fertilizers do not go on the leaves, and gently rake them into the surface soil. Then apply light mulch of well-rotted farmyard manure, garden compost or peat to help to preserve soil moisture in the event of a spring drought but be prepared to water as well when necessary.
Timing the fruit When, in the spring following planting, the first blossom buds appear, you have to make a major policy decision. First-year flowers on maiden plants will give the earliest crop and the largest individual berries, but if you remove this first year's blossom and wait until the second crop, the yield will then probably be greater than the total of two years' crops on plants fruiting in their first season.
If you are very anxious to secure early fruit and if you are going to protect them with cloches or polythene tunnels, and then first-year blossom should be left on. Indeed, where earliness is considered all-important, the strawberries may be treated as an annual crop and a fresh batch of earlies planted every year, to be dug up and burned immediately after harvesting. In such instances, strawberries may take their place in the regular annual rotation of the vegetable garden.
Where size of crop is considered more important than earliness, and the plants are deblossomed in their first year, there is every prospect of the strawberries continuing to yield well for three years, possibly for four.
The perpetual-fruiting varieties, in fact, bear at least two distinct crops. In the first year after planting, the first batch of blossom should be removed to give the plants a chance to gain size and strength. Blossom appearing after the end of June is allowed to develop and the fruit will be ripe from late summer onwards. In subsequent years, you have the choice between two crops, one in June and one in autumn, and one, larger crop, earlier in autumn or in late summer.
Not long after the berries begin to develop, runners will appear. Unless these are required for propagation they should be cut off at once with scissors so as not to waste the plant's energies. With early-rooted plants set out early, runners may even be produced in the first autumn and these should certainly be removed. Perpetual fruiting varieties tend not to produce runners so freely as the summer-fruiting kinds, but nevertheless these, too, should usually be removed unless required for increase.
Protection Before the first ripening strawberries are heavy enough to weigh the trusses down to the soil, some kind of protection is necessary to prevent the berries being splashed by mud. The traditional method is to lay straw on the soil, barley straw being more easily tucked close to the plants than the stiffer wheat straw and less liable to be a carrier of pests than oat straw. Before putting down the straw, weed by gentle hoeing, handweeding, or spot application of weed killer.
You should not be in too much of a hurry to put down the straw because, as it is light in color, it loses heat rapidly and increases the risk of radiation frost damage to open blossom or tiny fruitlets.
Straw, however, is not always easy to obtain, and you can buy patented strawberry mats or specially made wire supports which hold the berries clear of the soil. Even a scattering of peat is better than nothing.
Slugs can do much damage in a strawberry bed and slug bait pellets should be scattered freely among the plants and kept renewed as necessary during the fruiting season.
Picking Out of doors the first berries are likely to ripen between four and six weeks from when the blossom opened. The fruit should be picked by taking the stem about 1cm (0.5in) behind the berry between finger and thumb. In this way the berry can be broken off without being touched.
Varieties:
There are two major varieties of Strawberries. The first and most popular is June Bearing. It gets it's names as these big and luscious fruit are harvested in June in most areas. They are the largest variety and to many, the sweetest. Producing a big and bountiful harvest, they are popular with people who want to make jams, jellies and for freezing. Strawberry festivals are centered around the harvest of the June bearing crop.
Everbearing Strawberries are the second major variety. These usually smaller berries will produce all season long. But, the harvest is usually smaller. If you want to have them all season ling fresh from the garden, grow a small row of this variety.
A third, and far less common variety is day neutral.
Did you Know? Strawberries are the only fruit that has seeds grow on the outside.
STRAWBERRY
The strawberry you eat is not really a fruit or a berry but is the enlarged receptacle of the flower.

Strawberries are grown in every state in the U.S. and every province in Canada. California produces 80% of the nation's strawberries, providing almost a year-round supply. California strawberry growers and researchers, along with help from the most ideal growing conditions, work together to produce the highest quality strawberries you can buy.

There are approximately 700 strawberry growers in California producing fruit on over 20,000 acres annually. The strawberry shipping season begins in January in the southern part of the state and moves north with the warming springtime temperatures. Volume peaks in April and May when all production areas overlap. During this time, weekly volume can approach 5 million trays or just over 9 million pounds a day.

Strawberries were cultivated in ancient Rome and were used as a medicinal herb in the 13th Century. They are a member of the Rose family. A museum dedicated to them in Belgium. During the 1700's, a hybrid variety was developed in France by breeding wild strawberries brought from North America with others from Chile. The first important American variety, the Hovey, was grown in 1834 in Massachusetts.

Nutrition and Consumption:
One serving of strawberries contains 20% RDA of folic acid. That's more per comparable serving than any other fruit. Folic acid is a water-soluble B vitamin which has been proven to reduce birth defects involving brain and nerve disorders. Strawberries are one of the most delicious and nutritious fruits. According to FDA regulations, strawberries are a sodium-free, fat-free food. They are not only cholesterol free but low in calories as well.
One serving of eight medium sized strawberries contains:
• 140% of the U.S. Recommended Daily Allowance of Vitamin C, which is more than one orange. • 20% of the daily value for folic acid. • Only 50 calories. • No fat grams. • Recognized source of potassium, folacin and dietary fiber. • Approximately 50% of this total dietary fiber is a water soluble pectin. • Clinical studies that soluble fibers help reduce serum cholesterol levels.*
Detailed nutritional informatin can be found by searching the USDA Nutritional Database. Enter "Strawberry" (no quotes) as the keyword and select the link and report of interest.

Types
June bearing or spring bearing, everbearing and day neutral are the three types of strawberries grown in Illinois. Fruits of day neutral plants and everbearers are usually smaller than June-bearers fruit.
June bearing strawberries produce a crop during a two-to-three week period in the spring. June-bearers produce flowers, fruits and runners. They are classified into early, mid-season and late varieties.
Everbearing strawberries produce three periods of flowers and fruit during the spring, summer and fall. Everbearers do not produce many runners.
Day neutral strawberries will produce fruit throughout the growing season. These strawberries produce just a few runners.
Everbearing and day neutral strawberries are great for gardeners who have limited space. They can be grown in terraced beds, barrels or pyramids. They can also be used as an edging plant or a groundcover.

Strawberry Varieties
Strawberry varieties should be selected on the basis of dessert quality; preserving quality; disease resistance and season of maturation.
Strawberry cultivars for Illinois, listed by season from earliest to latest within groups and disease resistance
Strawberry type Fruit size Red stele Verticillium wilt Region of adaptation*
June bearing Earligrow medium R3 R N,C,S
Annapolis large R S N
Honeoye large S S N,C,S
Delmarvel large R R N,C,S
Seneca medium S S N,C
Jewel large S S N,C,S
Kent large S S N,C
Allstar very large R R N,C,S
Day neutrals Tristar medium R R N,C,S
Tribute medium R R N,C,S
R = resistant to this disease; S=susceptible to this disease.
*N = adapted to region north of Interstate 80; C = adapted to region between Interstate 80 and Interstate 70; S = adapted to region south of Interstate 70.
When to Plant
Plant strawberries as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. This is usually in March or April allowing the plants to become well established before the hot weather arrives. Do not work the soil if it is wet. Wait a few days until it dries.

Planting Depth
Try to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or during the late afternoon. Set the strawberry plant in the soil so that the soil is just covering the tops of the roots. Do not cover the crown. After four or five weeks, the plants will produce runners and new daughter plants.


The center plant is set correctly, with the soil just covering the tops of the roots. The plant on the left is set too shallow; the plant on the right too deep.

Planting Systems
Matted Row Systems
This system is the best for growing June-bearing cultivars. In this system, the strawberry plants should be set eighteen to thirty inches apart in rows three to four feet apart. Daughter plants are allowed to root freely to become a matted row no wider than two feet.

Spaced-Row Systems
This system limits the number of daughter plants that grow from a mother plant. The mother plants are set eighteen to thirty inches apart in rows three to four feet apart. The daughter plants are spaced to root no closer than four inches apart. All other runners are pulled or cut from the mother plants. Even though more care is needed under this system, advantages include higher yields, larger berries and fewer disease problems.

Hill System
This is the best system for growing day-neutral and everbearing strawberries. In this system all the runners are removed so only the original mother plant remains. Removing the runners causes the mother plant to develop more crowns and flower stalks. Multiple rows are arranged in groups of two, three or four plants with a two foot walkway between each group of rows. Plants are set about one foot apart in multiple rows. During the first two or three weeks of growth, the planting should be weeded; then the bed should be mulched.
General Care
Strawberries are among the most widely grown fruit in the home garden. Strawberries prefer a well drained soil, high in organic matter. They need full sun for the highest yields, at least 6 hours per day. Do not plant strawberries where peppers, tomatoes, eggplant and potatoes have been grown. These plants could harbor verticillium wilt, a serious strawberry disease. Strawberries need about one inch of water per week during the growing season.
Blossom Removal
During the first growing season, remove flowers of June-bearing strawberries as soon as they appear. Removing the flowers promotes root and runner development thereby insuring a large crop the following year.
For everbearing and day-neutral strawberries, remove the flowers until the end of June and then after that date allow the flowers to remain to set fruit for a summer/fall harvest.
Fertilization
Before planting apply one pound per 100 square feet of a 10-10-10 fertilizer and dig into soil at least six to eight inches deep. After the first harvest in the second season strawberries should be fertilized after renovation in July. Water the fertilizer in to get it down to the root zone. This application is made to keep the plants in a vigorous condition and to promote new growth causing the development of more fruit buds. Do not over fertilize. Overfertilization will cause excessive vegetative growth, reduce yields; increase losses from frost and foliar disease and result in winter injury.
Mulching
Strawberries are very susceptible to frosts in the spring. Mulches that have covered the plants during the winter months should be removed in the early spring but should be left in the aisles to cover the blossoms in the spring when frost is predicted. Old blankets or sheets can be used for protection against frost. Spun bond material such as Reemay or row covers will protect strawberry plantings down to temperatures of about 23°-25°F. In the fall between mid-November and mid-December in Illinois but before temperatures drop below 20 degrees; apply a straw mulch three to four inches deep over the rows. This mulch will protect the plants from cold temperatures that can kill the buds and injure roots and crowns. Remove the mulch in the spring when the strawberry leaves show yellow. Leave some of the mulch around the plants to keep the fruit from soil contact and to conserve soil moisture.
Renovation
Renovation is an important part of strawberry care. In order to insure good fruit production, June-bearing strawberries grown in the matted row system should be renovated every year right after harvest. A strawberry patch will continue to be productive for three to four years as long as the planting is maintained. The first step in the renovation process is to mow the old foliage with a mower, cutting off the leaves about one inch above the crowns. Rake the leaves and if disease-free, compost or incorporate into the soil. Fertilize with one pound of a 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Narrow the rows to six to twelve inches wide by spading, hoeing or rototilling. Remove all weeds. Thin the plants in the narrowed row to 4 to 6 inches between plants. Water with one inch of water per week to promote growth and to make new runners for next year's crop.

Strawberries
Planting and Culturing Guide
Click Here for a Bulleted Summary of Planting Guide Instructions for Strawberries
PLANTING
Space your strawberry plants 12-18 inches apart in the row. Rows should be spaced 3-4 feet apart. Set plants in the row with the roots straight down. Be sure that planter shoes on your transplanting equipment or hand tools penetrate deeply enough to facilitate proper planting. Care should be taken that plants are set with the middle of the crown level with the top of the soil. Within a week or so, the soil will settle and the soil line should be even with the bottom of the crown. (See illustration.) Avoid covering crowns with soil while you hoe, weed, and cultivate throughout the season.


WEED CONTROL
Weed control for strawberries is very important for successful results. We recommend preparing your site the year before planting to remove perennial grasses and to reduce weed pressure. At planting time, the soil should be thoroughly prepared and weed free. After planting, weekly cultivation removes weeds when they are small so they do not have a chance to compete with your plants. A tool called a scuffle hoe works well for this type of work. Also, the proper use of mulches will assist in weed control. Consult your local Cooperative Extension office for advice on using any chemical weed controls.
FERTILIZATION
Fertilizers should be used to maintain a balanced soil fertility, which will result in good vigorous plant growth. We recommend fertilizing in small quantities on a regular basis to encourage adequate growth and remove the possibility of overfertilizing. Overfertilizing leads to burning of plant leaves and roots, disease-prone growth and soft berries. See details for fertilization in the June bearing and/or day neutrals sections.
IRRIGATION
Irrigation is important for producing good crops of strawberries. If irrigation is not available, select a site with good water-holding capacity (but avoiding wet soils) as strawberries do poorly under drought conditions. Plant as soon as possible when the soil moisture is good. Strawberries do best when they get 1-2 inches of rainfall or equivalent each week, depending on soil type.
MULCHING
Mulching is necessary in most northern states. A mulch prevents the quick freezing and thawing and thus mitigates fluctuating temperatures which cause crown damage that affects plant survival and crop yield. Mulch keeps fruit clean, conserves moisture, keeps down weeds, and adds humus to the soil.
Mulch with any loose, acid-free and weed-free material such as salt hay or straw, after plants have started to go dormant or after 6-10 hard frosts - usually in early to late November depending on your location and the accumulation of chilling hours. Avoid materials like decayed or wet leaves that tend to mat down and can smother plants. Remove mulch from the top of the crowns in spring when the new growth starts. Leave mulch in the aisles to help keep the fruit clean.
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June-Bearers
ESTABLISHMENT YEAR
Pinch out all the flower buds the first year of growth. This allows the plant to put its energy into becoming established and will yield a larger crop the first bearing year. Fill in the rows of your strawberry plants by allowing some runners to set daughter plants. In mid to late July set 2 or 3 daughters on each side of the mother plant by lightly pressing the plantlets on the runners into the ground and tamp the soil down around the plantlet. Cut off any additional runners that form during the season.
We suggest 1/2 lb. to 1 lb. of 10-10-10 fertilizer or equivalent, per 100 square feet be well worked into the soil before planting. Another application of 1/2 lb. of 10-10-10 per 100 square feet as a side dressing can be applied in July and again in August. Be prepared to compensate for wet rainy periods, which tend to leach away nutrients, with extra fertilizer applications.
SUCCEEDING YEARS
Apply 1 lb. to 1.5 lbs. of 10-10-10 per 100 square feet at renovation. Sidedress in July and August, the same as the establishment year.
RENOVATION
A process called 'renovation' is performed on June-bearing strawberry beds after the harvest that helps to keep plants healthy and productive over the years. Follow these simple steps:
As soon as all the berries have been harvested, mow off the leaves. Use your lawn mower set at the highest setting. Take care not to cut or injure the crowns.
Rototill the edges of the beds to narrow the bed width to 12-18 inches. Remove excess plants to leave 3-5 inches around every plant.
Fertilize with 1 to 1.5 pounds of 10-10-10 per 100 sq. ft. and water well until leaves are regrown.
Maintain adequate moisture throughout the entire growing season. We recommend the equivalent of 1-2 inches a week depending on rains and soil type.
You can expect a well-managed strawberry bed to last 3-5 years.
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Day Neutrals
It is important to note with day-neutrals, the impact of hot weather can be modified with good watering practices. The cooler temperatures of autumn will bring a return of berry size and yield. Do not renovate day neutral strawberries.
ESTABLISHMENT YEAR
Pinch out all the flowers for 6 weeks after setting out your plants. We also recommend that you remove all the runners during the first year. This will allow the plants to become established. You can then let the plants set fruit from midsummer through October. We suggest 1/2 lb. to 1 lb. of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet be worked into the soil before planting. Side dress with 1/2 pound of 10-10-10 per 100 sq. feet in July and again in August, compensating for wet periods that leach away nutrients.
SUCCEEDING YEARS
Side dress with 1-1 1/2 lb. of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet in the spring. Side dress in July and August the same as in the establishment year.
You can expect a bed of day-neutral plants to be productive for one to two years.




The strawberry (Fragaria) is a genus of plants in the family Rosaceae, and the fruit of these plants. There are more than 20 named species and many hybrids and cultivars. The most common strawberries grown commercially are cultivars of the Garden Strawberry, a Fragaria × ananassa hybrid.
Morphology


Strawberry flowers and developing fruit
The strawberry is an accessory fruit; that is, the fleshy part is derived not from the ovaries (which are the "seeds", actually achenes) but from the peg at the bottom of the hypanthium that held the ovaries. So from a technical standpoint, the seeds are the actual fruits of the plant, and the flesh of the strawberry is a vegetable. It is greenish-white as it develops and in most species turns red when ripe.
The rosette growth of the plants are a well-known characteristic. Most species send out long slender runners that produce a new bud at the extremity. The leaves typically have three leaflets, but the number of leaflets may be five or one.
While the flower has the typical rosaceous structure, the fruit is very peculiar, but it may be understood by the contrast it presents with the rose hip of the rose. In a rose the top of the flower-stalk expands as it grows into a vase-shaped cavity, the hip, within which are concealed the true fruits or seed-vessels. In the rose the extremity of the floral axis is concave and bears the carpels in its interior. In the strawberry, the floral axis, instead of being concave, swells out into a fleshy, dome-shaped or flattened mass in which the carpels or true fruits, commonly called pips or seeds, are more or less embedded but never wholly concealed. A ripe strawberry in fact may be aptly compared to the fruit of a rose turned inside out.


Strawberry farms generally add hives of honeybees to improve pollination
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Classification
There are more than 20 Fragaria species worldwide. Key to the classification of strawberry species is recognizing that they vary in the number of chromosomes. There are seven basic types of chromosomes that they all have in common. However, they exhibit different polyploidy. Some species are diploid, having two sets of the seven chromosomes (14 chromosomes total). Others are tetraploid (four sets, 28 chromosomes total), hexaploid (six sets, 42 chromosomes total), octoploid (eight sets, 56 chromosomes total), or decaploid (ten sets, 70 chromosomes total).
As a rough rule (with exceptions), strawberry species with more chromosomes tend to be more robust and produce larger plants with larger berries (Darrow).


Diploid species
• Fragaria daltoniana
• Fragaria iinumae
• Fragaria nilgerrensis
• Fragaria nipponica
• Fragaria nubicola
• Fragaria vesca (Woodland Strawberry)
• Fragaria viridis
• Fragaria yezoensis
Tetraploid species
• Fragaria moupinensis
• Fragaria orientalis
Hexaploid species
• Fragaria moschata (Musk Strawberry)
Octoploid species and hybrids
• Fragaria x ananassa (Garden Strawberry)
• Fragaria chiloensis (Beach Strawberry)
• Fragaria iturupensis (Iturup Strawberry)
• Fragaria virginiana (Virginia Strawberry)
Decaploid species and hybrids
• Fragaria × Potentilla hybrids
• Fragaria × vescana
Numerous other species have been proposed. Some are now recognized as subspecies of one of the above species (see GRIN taxonomy database).
The Mock Strawberry and Barren Strawberry, which both bear resemblance to Fragaria, are closely related species in the genus Potentilla. The Strawberry tree is an unrelated species.
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Pathogens
A number of species of Lepidoptera feed on strawberry plants; for details see this list.
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Etymology


The traditional North European way of gathering strawberries
The name is derived from Old English streawberige which is a compound of streaw meaning "straw" and berige meaning "berry". The reason for this is unclear. It may derive from the strawlike appearance of the runners, or from an obsolete denotation of straw, meaning "chaff", referring to the scattered appearance of the achenes.
Interestingly, in other Germanic countries there is a tradition of collecting wild strawberries by threading them on straws. In those countries people find straw-berry to be an easy word to learn considering their association with straws.
There is an alternative theory that the name derives from the Anglo-Saxon verb for "strew" (meaning to spread around) which was streabergen (Strea means "strew" and Bergen means "berry" or "fruit") and thence to streberie, straiberie, strauberie, straubery, strauberry, and finally, "strawberry", the word which we use today. The name might have come from the fact that the fruit and various runners appear "strewn" along the ground.
Popular etymology has it that it comes from gardeners' practice of mulching strawberries with straw to protect the fruits from rot (a pseudoetymology that can be found in non-linguistic sources such as the Old Farmer's Almanac 2005). However, there is no evidence that the Anglo-Saxons ever grew strawberries, and even less that they knew of this practice.